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updates
Walking the Via de la Plata is now out of print. Walking the Via de la Plata was published in 2004 and as things changed, was becoming out of date
updates to Walking the Via de la Plata appear in page order.
General information
May 2008: Mike reports that there was no road building on the Via this year. He would recommend that pilgrims take walking boots, as he did on the Camino Frances. From Pili Pala: if you've walked the camino frances, stick with whatever footwear worked for you on that route.
Health & Safety (page 35) The E111 form has been replaced by the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), available from the UK Department of Health (www.dh.gov.uk/en/Healthcare/Healthadvicefortravellers/index.htm).
Credenciales in Sevilla (page 46)
Credenciales (pilgrim passports) are available from the Amigos de Via de Plata at 25 San Jacinto (just across the river on the Isabel the 2nd bridge). They are open Monday to Thursday in the evening. You can also get a credencial at the provincial tourist office facing the Plaza de Triunfo. Thanks to Brad Henderson for the update!
Leaving Sevilla (page 47) May 2008: Mike recommends taking the bus to Santiponce to save a boring walk through commercial-industrial areas. Leave the bus at Italica (last stop).
El Real de la Jara (page 55)
Pilgrims in 2006 and 2007 report that the way through the Finca Arroyo Mateo is now closed, and you have to stick to the road all the way to El Real de la Jara. Once in El Real, there's a new albergue with 8 beds on Calle Real.
Road building south of Monesterio (page 57) A pilgrim in spring 2006 reports that the construction of the new A66 motorway has diverted the camino just south of Monesterio.
Accommodation in Extremadura (page 63)
AlbaPlata has nine tourist hotels in Extremadura, which Mike (May 2008) says are very good. See www.viaplata.com/albergues.htm for more information. More pricey than municipal albergues, but very good
New accommodation at Puebla de Sancho Perez (page 97)
May 2008: Mike reports a new tourist albergue at Puebla de Sancho Perez. See www.viaplata.com/albergues8.htm for details. The albergue is in the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Belen. Thanks, Mike!
Private albergue in Zafra (page 71)
There's a private albergue in Zafra on Calle Ancha 1. The albergue costs 15 euros a night, and there are 20 places. Thanks to Pedro (the albergue's owner) and Daphne for the information!
New accommodation at Villafranca de los Barros (page 73)
May 2008: Mike reports a new tourist albergue at Villafranca de los Barros. See www.viaplata.com/albergues6.htm for details. Thanks, Mike!
New albergue in Torremegía (page 76)
A new albergue has opened in Torremegia, just south of Mérida on the Via de la Plata. The albergue is in the Casa-Palacio de los Lastra, and includes a restaurant and coffee shop, with space for 23 pilgrims. This is a welcome addition to the Via de la Plata; previously, walking pilgrims either needed to detour to Almendralejo, or walk a 45km day!
New albergue in Mérida (page 79)
There's a new albergue on the river near the Puente Lusitania, which costs 4 euros. May 2008: Mike reports that it is "disappointingly small" for a city of this size
New accommodation at café Miraltajo (page 89)
The café Miraltajo on the Via de la Plata between Casar de Cáceres and Cañaveral has been renovated into the Hotel Rural Linda Mar. There's also a campsite and mattresses for pilgrims (phone 927 192 004). The Confraternity of St James also notes a new albergue turístico near the reservoir (phone 680 631 543).
New accommodation at Embalse de Alcantara (page 89)
May 2008: Mike reports a new tourist albergue at Garrovillas de Alconetar - off the N630 at the Embalse at the spot where you cross the highway to make the steep climb. This opened in 2007, and costs 15 euros (including breakfast). There is also food, including frozen dinners and salads, for sale. See www.viaplata.com/albergues4.htm for detailsThanks, Mike!
New accommodation at Oliva de Plasencia (page 97)
May 2008: Mike reports a new tourist albergue at Oliva de Plasencia, just off the camino. See www.viaplata.com/albergues3.htm for details. There's a bar in the village too, Thanks, Mike!
New accommodation at Herv�s (page 99)
May 2008: Mike reports a new tourist albergue at Hervas. See www.viaplata.com/albergues2.htm for details. Thanks, Mike!
New albergue in Calzada de Bejár (page 107)
A new private albergue in Calzada de Bejár has opened. It's in the first building as you walk into the village, and has 30 beds. There's a kitchen, and the hospitalera often prepares dinner. Thanks to Daphne for the information! Mike (May 2008) reports that this is very good with various prices, depending on the accommodation & what meals are provided.
New albergue in Morille (page 111)
A new municipal albergue has opened in Morille. It's behind the medical centre on the square. There are 4 beds, it costs 6 euros a night, and the woman who runs it can feed you in her brother's bar if you ask ahead. Thanks to Daphne for the information! May 2008: Mike reports that it's very good but very small (6 beds). The key is at Bar Marcos which has a good meal and is a great place to watch European football.
New albergue in Salamanca (page 115)
There's a new albergue in Salamanca, on Calle Arcediano, just east of the Catedral Vieja. There are 20 beds in 3 rooms, with nice bathrooms. Thanks to Daphne for the information. May 2008: Mike reports that the albergue opens at 12.00 to leave your pack; 16.00 to register, shower and stay.
New albergue in Villanueva de Campéon (page 118)
There's now a small albergue and bar in Villanueva de Campéon. Thanks to Daphne for the information!
New albergue in Montamarta (page 122)
A new albergue opened in May 2006 (40 beds, kitchen). It's on the N630 midway between the village and the Hotel Asturiano. Thanks to Ian for the information!
Granja de Moreruela (page 125)
A new casa rural opened in 2005 in Granja de Moreruela. Called Tio Quico, it costs 20 euros and has a kitchen.
The albergue now has 10 beds and a hot shower.
New albergue in Calzadilla de la Tera (page 130)
There's a new albergue at the edge of town near the panadería, on Calle Tras Las Casas. Get the key from Calle Las Eras 9.
New albergue in Puebla de Sanabria (page 143)
There's a new albergue underneath the ayuntamiento. It has 4 beds, 4 mattresses, a hot shower and dining room.
Lubián (page 147)
Steve and Paul report that both La Casa de Irene and Casa Rural La Pachaca are both closed.
After Lubián (page 147)
Ian reports highway construction and wind farm infrastructure (summer 2006).
A Gudiña (page 151)
There are ATMs/bank machines in A Gudiña
New accommodation in Campobecerros (page 152)
In Campobecerros, the bar at the top of town is now a Casa Rural called Casa Nunez. All 4 rooms are ensuite, with a wonderful view of the mountains. Thanks to Ruth for the information!
Laza (page 152)
Steve and Paul report (July 2007) that there are no ATMs/bank machines in Laza.
New bar in Alberguería (page 153)
Many pilgrims wrote to us about a new bar, Rincón de Peregrinos, that serves great café con leche, and scallop shells signed by all who pass through it.
Vilar de Barrio (page 162)
Steve and Paul report (July 2007) that there are no ATMs/bank machines in Vilar de Barrio.
Ourense (page 167)
Steve and Paul say that yellow arrows direct pilgrims just to the right of the Avenida de Zamora, a less steep route that the one described in the guide.
A returning pilgrim (May 2008) reports that the albergue is easy to miss. He also says avoid the Casa Rosa hotel, which has mildewy towels.
Cea (page 172)
A returning pilgrim reports (May 2008) that you can't miss the albergue, there are yellow arrows on every building. The albergue won't give a sello if you're not staying.
Cea to Monasterio de Oseira (page 170)
Reports from 2006 suggest that the route has now changed, is waymarked through Pinor and Colelas, but very few yellow arrows and easy to get lost. New roadworks are also problematic.
Monasterio de Oseira (page 172)
Conflicting reports on the Monasterio de Oseira. One pilgrim says you can stay - 12 euros for bed, breakfast and dinner - if you phone ahead the night before (988 282 004). More recent reports suggest that the Monasterio no longer accepts pilgrims.
A returning pilgrim (May 2008) reports that there are no individual rooms, just bunks in a cold, very damp, one-room building with no hot water. Also that the monks no longer make chocolate and cheese.
Between Cea and Castro Dozón (page 173)
Steve and Paul report (July 2007) that there's a lot of road construction between Cea and Castro Dozón.
Castro Dozón (page 173)
Reports from 2004 suggest that both the albergue and hotel in Castro Dozón are now closed. Pilgrims in 2006 found the hostal open, but no running water and terrible service, with no food available.
Reports in May 2008 describe a temporary (portakabin) 40-bed facility on the north end of the main road. Good water and clean facilities, but a poorly marked approach before Castro Dozón.
Estación de Lalín (page 175)
The bar-restaurant has rooms above for 28 euros a double.
Laxe (page 175)
According to Steve and Paul, "The spacious refuge here is off the main road and down a little lane. The woman who has the key (Victoria) lives maybe 75m away and has her phone number posted on the refuge door. There are 3 restaurants and a new 3-star hotel within walking distance. Bar/Restaurant Antonio is about 1km away in the industrial park above the albergue; it’s essentially a nice truck stop. Ma Jose’s is about 800m away further along the camino. Beyond that another 500m or so is the new hotel and its restaurant."
Bandeira (page 176)
According to Steve and Paul, the albergue is "close to 3km away (a sign in town lists it as 2.7km). We had gone almost the entire way out to the albergue but just didn’t want to traipse back and forth into town for meals, etc., so we adjusted plans and stayed in a hostal (the Conde Rey) in town. We were glad we did, not only because of the distance, but also because of the kind hospitality of the people at the Conde Rey."
May 2008 reports say the albergue is closed, and that the approach into the village is poorly marked.
New albergue (page 178)
In 2006, a new albergue opened at San Pedro de Villanova, some 4km after Puente Ulla. Includes air conditioning! Thanks to Ian for the information. Steve and Paul (July 2007) say that, "A very nice albergue with the key available from the woman in the house next door (on the Ponte Ulla side). Although you can bring food from Ponte Ulla, there is a decent restaurant about 1km downhill from the albergue, on the N525."
May 2008: a returning pilgrim reports that this albergue is in Vedra, 2.4km after Puente Ulla.
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