along the camino: basque lands

memorial cross by the side of the road in the Pyrenees surrounded by crosses left by pilgrims. On many days of the year, a kindly Frenchman drives up to this spot with water for thirsty pilgrims

The Basques are thought to be the original Europeans, passed over by successive waves of invaders and content to remain in and fight to protect this beautiful region.

The route over the Pyrenees from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles is one of the most dramatic of the camino, climbing steeply and soared over by eagles, buzzards, and kestrels.

As the Pyrenees peter out, you'll pass traditional villages of beautiful whitewashed stone houses with ornate rafters, and walk alongside trout-filled rivers lined with beech trees.